The Coffee cocktail got its name from the way it looks, and not from having coffee in it, or tasting like coffee. In my last post, for the Clover Club, I talked a bit about eggs, and here's another one. Though this time we're using an egg yolk. This is a lot rarer in the cocktail recipes I see today. Egg whites are all over the place, and whole eggs are next, with egg yolk being seen the least. Apparently this recipe in Jerry Thomas' book, from back from the 1800s, has a whole egg. Either way this is still a nice, if sweet, cocktail.
The Clover Club is a great cocktail. It apparently was one of the classics from before prohibition, but it didn't survive beyond it very well. In 1934, Esquire magazine called it a drink “for pansies." That said, it is still found in all three of my 1930s cocktail books. People may have sneered at it, but it managed to hang in there. Everyone today assumes that it was the pink color that just couldn't be handled by real men. At any rate it's making a bit of a comeback now, and it really is a lovely drink in the sour family.
I quite like champagne. Growing up we only had champagne a few times, and my mom was very particular about what was acceptable champagne. The real stuff—not Prosecco or Crémant. And Brut. She was big on dry champagne. Anyway, I have to say that getting a bubbly cocktail sounds fun, and while I know it is popular to use champagne for bubbles, it always struck me as a job for cheap, sweet champagne. The stuff you wouldn't drink right out.
I paused posting here for a bit due to a two-week trip to the US for work. No cocktail-making going on for me while I travel. I'm back in the saddle again at home though, so here we go. The Café de Paris cocktail looks like a pretty weird drink to me (and to others as well). The fact that it is yet another anise drink doesn't help with me either. I dug around to find out a little more about this one, and it appears to go pretty far back to a Brooklyn, NY hotel, which opened in 1909.
The Bronx is another cocktail with an interesting history, which shows in the fact that I have two recipes for it. This is kin to the Manhattan, in that it is another New York City borough name, and is in the same family of liquor and vermouth drinks. (And, yes, there is another borough cocktail, the Brooklyn, and I hear internet rumors that there is one for Queens, which is a Bronx with pineapple juice instead.) There are two stories about how it came to be.
Now we come to the Brandy Fizz, which is a recipe you can find much more easily than the previous Brandy Cocktail. The modern drink is still the same as this classic, and the recipe is older than the 1930s, showing up back in the late 1800's (though with a lot less lemon juice in it). All fizzes get their name from the addition of soda water. Fizzes as a drink class also all have citrus of some sort in them. This is essentially a fizzy brandy lemonade. Yum.
Next up in Lommebogen is the Brandy Cocktail. Try Googling that one. Yeah, you get all kind of brandy cocktails, but it's impossible to find hits for the Brandy Cocktail. So, this is just going from what is in the three books, without any modern research. I'm just not that patient or persistent, especially when all three books are pretty much in line, and it is a very fine cocktail as is from the 1930s. This is pretty much what it states—it's a brandy in cocktail form. Back in the day "cocktail" pretty much meant a shot of liquor with a little sweetener and some bitters.
The cocktail that comes first alphabetically in Lommebogen, and also matches my triple-book criteria, is the Blackthorn. This first one is a doozy. Let's start with the name. Axel has it written down as Blach Torn. Torn is thorn in Danish, and generally Danish isn't good with "th" in words. When I was looking at that one during the initial cross-referencing it took me a few minutes to realize that he was referring to the Blackthorn cocktail because I was just taking the name at face value.
I seem to like starting new projects. Not that I actually complete them all (see: weekly photo plan). So, in that spirit, I've got a new project—this time in the cocktail realm. Last fall my friend Rie gave me a great cocktail gift in a small book called Lommebogen (link is in Danish). It is a photocopy of bartender Axel Sørensen's personal bar notes from the 1930s.
I'll admit that I've become a cocktail snob. As I've been learning at home about bartending I've put my usual geek focus into it. When I go out it's hard to not be all "born again" on people. I've gotten to the point where I recognize that people should drink what they like, not what books or people tell you they should like. That said, I still have a lot of judgment in me for the bars who are serving the drinks. I used to get my nose out of joint from badly mixed cocktails, but I've come to understand that I just need to assess a bar for its capabilities and order accordingly. Here are a few things that I look for in a bar, and how that effects what I'll order so that I have a satisfying experience.